When you’re living off the grid—miles from the nearest hookup—your power setup can make or break your overland adventure. Whether you’re charging a fridge, running lights, or topping off camera gear, your electrical system is what keeps modern overlanding comfortable, safe, and fully self-supported.
In this in-depth guide, we’ll break down the most popular overlanding power systems: solar panels, dual battery setups, and portable power stations. We’ll help you understand what each does, when to use them, and how to build a power solution that fits your rig and your style of travel.
Why You Need a Power System for Overlanding
Gone are the days when a flashlight and a few spare AA batteries were enough for a weekend off-road. Today’s overlanders rely on gear like:
- 12V refrigerators or coolers
- GPS units or tablet navigation
- Lighting systems (LED camp lights, rock lights)
- Communications (radios, inReach, phones)
- Laptops and camera batteries
- Heated blankets, diesel heaters, or fans
The farther you go, the more self-sufficient your power system needs to be.
The 3 Core Overland Power Options
There are three primary ways to keep your gear powered in the wild:
- Dual Battery Systems
- Solar Power (fixed or portable)
- Portable Power Stations
1. Dual Battery Systems
A dual battery setup is the backbone of most serious overland builds. It separates your starting battery (for driving) from your accessory battery (for everything else).
How it Works:
- Primary battery: Starts the vehicle
- Secondary (auxiliary) battery: Powers fridges, lights, and gear
- The two batteries are connected via a battery isolator or DC-DC charger, which controls the charge and prevents one from draining the other
Benefits:
- Totally self-contained power system
- Charges while you drive
- Keeps your starter battery safe
- Easily expandable for more accessories
Types of Dual Battery Setups:
- Isolator relay system (budget-friendly): Works by voltage sensing
- DC-DC charger system (best option): Safely charges different battery chemistries, includes MPPT solar charging
- Battery management systems (BMS): Monitor voltage, temperature, and charge status
Common Battery Options:
- AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat): Reliable, affordable, heavier
- Lithium (LiFePO4): Lightweight, more capacity, longer life, more expensive
- Gel or Wet Cell: Less common for overlanding due to lower durability and complexity
Top Brands:
- Redarc
- Renogy
- CTEK
- Victron
- National Luna
When a Dual Battery System Makes Sense:
- You camp often and off-grid for multiple days
- You have a dedicated fridge/freezer
- You’re running hardwired lighting, pumps, radios, or heaters
- You want a permanent system with maximum control
2. Solar Power for Overlanding
Solar is the most popular upgrade for off-grid power—and for good reason. It’s silent, sustainable, and scalable.
Types of Solar Systems:
Fixed-Mount Solar Panels
- Mounted to your roof rack, canopy, or RTT
- Always collecting power (if sunny)
- Low maintenance once installed
- Downside: You have to park in the sun to charge, which isn’t always ideal for comfort
Portable Solar Panels (Folding or Briefcase Style)
- Deploy at camp and move as needed
- Angle toward the sun
- Easy to store when not in use
- Great for topping off a dual battery or portable power station
Solar Controllers
- Regulate the charge going into your battery
- PWM: Less efficient, cheaper
- MPPT: More efficient, recommended for overlanding
Sizing Your Solar
- A 100W panel gives around 30–40Ah/day in ideal conditions
- A fridge draws 1–2Ah per hour
- Add extra capacity for lights, fans, devices, etc.
- Many rigs run 200–300W systems for complete independence
Top Brands:
- Renogy
- Goal Zero (portable)
- Zamp Solar
- Redarc
- EcoFlow (integrated kits)
When to Use Solar:
- You want silent, clean power at camp
- You’re stationary for multiple days
- You need to maintain your battery bank
- You want redundancy with your alternator charging
3. Portable Power Stations
Sometimes called “solar generators,” these are all-in-one lithium power units. They’re wildly popular for their plug-and-play simplicity.
What’s Inside a Power Station:
- Lithium battery (usually LiFePO4)
- Built-in inverter (AC output)
- 12V outputs, USB ports, Anderson plugs
- Charge controller for solar input
- Display with battery level and usage
Top Use Cases:
- Weekend trips
- Second power source
- Charging phones, laptops, drones
- Backup for dual battery systems
- Keeping power accessible away from the rig (e.g., in a tent or annex)
Pros:
- No installation required
- Safe, compact, portable
- Charge from solar, 12V, or wall outlet
- Great for beginners
Cons:
- More expensive per Ah than DIY setups
- Limited expandability
- Some don’t handle high-draw devices well
Top Brands:
- Jackery
- Goal Zero
- Bluetti
- EcoFlow
- Anker
How to Choose the Right Size:
- 500Wh = lights, phone, fan
- 1000Wh = fridge + electronics
- 1500Wh+ = multi-day trips with bigger devices
- 2000Wh+ = extended overlanding or heavy users
Comparing All Three Options
| Feature | Dual Battery System | Solar Power System | Portable Power Station |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power Capacity | High (expandable) | Medium (depends on sun) | Varies by model |
| Cost (est.) | $$$ | $$–$$$ | $–$$$ |
| Installation Required | Yes | Sometimes | No |
| Portability | Low | Medium | High |
| Ideal For | Full-time builds | Stationary camping | Weekenders & backup |
| Scalability | Excellent | Excellent | Limited (unless modular) |
Power Planning: What Do You Really Need?
Before you buy anything, think about how you travel:
Short Weekend Trips:
- Power station
- Small folding solar panel
- No need for hardwired systems
Moderate Trips (2–4 Days, Off-Grid):
- Power station with larger battery OR
- Simple dual battery setup with solar assist
- Fridge, lights, fans, radios
Full-Time Overlanding or Remote Expeditions:
- Dual battery system with DC-DC charger
- 200–300W solar array
- Optional portable battery for redundancy
- Monitoring system to track usage
Bonus: What About Inverters?
An inverter lets you convert 12V DC to 120V AC so you can run household appliances.
- 300–500W = lights, chargers, laptops
- 1000–2000W = tools, coffee makers, induction cooktops
- Always match your inverter to your battery bank’s capability
- Pure sine wave is best for sensitive electronics
If you’re using a portable power station, the inverter is usually built in.
Monitoring & Maintenance
A good power system is only as good as its management. Here’s what to monitor:
- Voltage: Know your baseline (12.6V = full AGM, 13.3V+ for lithium)
- Amperage draw: Fridge = ~2Ah/hr, lights <1Ah
- State of Charge (SOC): Aim to recharge before 50% if AGM
- Temperature: Lithium batteries don’t charge below 32°F unless heated
Consider a battery monitor like Victron SmartShunt, Redarc Manager, or DIY voltmeter setups for peace of mind.
Do You Need All Three?
Not always—but they can work together beautifully.
Example overland rig setup:
- Redarc dual battery system with lithium house battery
- 200W roof-mounted solar + folding 100W portable
- EcoFlow Delta power station as backup or for use away from vehicle
- Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring
This setup supports:
- 12V fridge
- Camp lighting
- Water pump
- Drone and camera charging
- Laptop and Starlink setup
- Small AC appliances (coffee maker, blender)
Final Thoughts: Choose Power That Fits Your Adventure
There’s no “best” power system—just the best one for how you travel.
If you’re a weekend warrior who just wants to chill, a Jackery and a solar briefcase might be perfect. If you’re hitting Baja for a month, you’ll want a hard-mounted dual battery setup with solar. And for many, the ideal solution is a mix of the three.
The key is to stay powered, stay safe, and stay free to roam.
Ready to power your next adventure?
Check out our trusted product recommendations and gear guides to build the right system for your off-grid lifestyle.